Major carriers serve Beirut International Airport (BEY), which is 5 mi/8 km south of the city. There's no domestic air service in Lebanon. Shared taxis run frequently between Lebanon and Syria, and many bus lines travel between Beirut and Damascus, arriving and departing from Beirut's Charles Helou Station (near the port). There is also ferry service to Larnaca, Cyprus.

Getting around Beirut and Lebanon can seem complicated, but it's never boring. In Beirut, taxis -- generally Mercedes, with red license plates -- can be hired privately (solely for you and your companions), or they can be servis taxis (pronounced sair-VEECE) that pick up other passengers along the way. There are fixed prices for both, so inquire locally for the going rates, and always establish the type of taxi you want (private or servis) and the fare you expect to pay, before getting in. Don't be fooled by taxi drivers who say, "Money isn't important." It may not be that important when you enter the taxi, but by the end of your trip it will have gained significance.

Servis taxis, which travel fixed routes at (generally) fixed rates, are the best (and cheapest) way to travel around the country. But it pays to study a map before setting out: Depending on your destination, you may have to negotiate rides to other towns first and then transfer to another taxi. Be aware that you may have to wait for the driver to find other passengers before departing. For trips beyond Beirut, there are two main servis-taxi depots: Kola in the southern part of Beirut and Dora (pronounced daw-rah) in the northeast.

We don't recommend renting a car without a driver. The roads and highways are generally good, but the Lebanese drive incredibly fast, and they exercise their right to pass at any given moment. An uninitiated foreigner, driving too conservatively, could conceivably bring about the collapse of the entire transportation system.